Crazy Drive to Presidio

For the last few weeks, we have been utilizing one of our days off each week to take a long drive with the dual goals of  "getting away" and also shopping for grocery items not readily (or reasonably) available in the nearby small towns.  Yesterday we decided to make the much talked about scenic drive along Route 170, which follows the Rio Grande on the US/Mexico border from Lajitas (a desert resort town) to Presidio, TX, a border town with an active international border crossing and one of the consistently hottest cities in the United States.

Along the way we stopped at Lajitas, a "company" town run by a resort operation that owns and operates pretty much everything in it including the stores, gas station, golf course and resort hotel. On a recommendation from a Ranger friend in the park, we also stopped  at the Barton Warnock Visitor Center (part of Big Bend Ranch State Park), a top-notch environmental educational center with fantastic exhibits on the geology of the Big Bend region including both the State and National Park areas as well as surrounding areas. Because we were National Park Volunteers, we were given complimentary passes to the State Park exhibits and we spent an hour or so going through the exhibits and thoroughly enjoyed it.

 Close by was the "Contrabando" movie set.  A decaying old movie set right on the side of the road that was used for a number of westerns in the 80's and 90's. Although many of the small buildings were basically facades, used primarily for exterior shots, it was actually on the Rio Grande, which authenticated it a bit.

Then it was back in the van heading West again.  We'd been told that the ride along the scenic route 170 was both beautiful and a "roller coaster ride".  Both turned out to be completely accurate descriptions!  Along the way, the signs told much of the story:

"Loose Livestock", "Rock Slides", "Road Subject to Flooding", "Steep Hill - 15% grade"

Despite the challenges, the van made it up and down the "Big Hill" and over and around the roller coaster of curves and steep grades, providing us with incredible views all the way to Presidio and back. Along the way we stopped at this interesting road-side rest area that provided shade for the picnic tables in the form of giant Tee Pees.

A particularly lush section of the Rio Grande along the way

Presidio itself was interesting in the way that all border towns have been, with many Mexican nationals crossing into the US to shop and work (and vice-versa). The clerks in all the stores and shops were completely bi-lingual, including at the US Post Office, where we were the only ones in line not speaking Spanish. Like most small towns in West Texas, Presidio offered limited fast food options, so we were happy to see a Subway and enjoyed a foot-long sub and cold fountain soda before hitting the supermarket for groceries for ourselves and also a few things we offered to pick up for some fellow volunteers in the park who we've become friendly with. We found the town to be relatively friendly and nonthreatening, but we were happy to head out none the less when the thermometer approached triple digits.

Finished out the day enjoying two-for-one burgers at a popular, eclectic town just outside the park that many park employees and volunteers frequent on Monday nights. The Terlingua Ghost Town, sports a number of oddities and also some interesting bars and restaurants. This one, the Starlight Theatre, is a popular one with lots of character (and characters!). They have a happy hour that includes $2 margaritas and $2.50 drafts from Big Bend Brewing Co., so it works for all. After eating, most people hang out on the wide front porch and admire the desert landscape, people-watch, and enjoy many of the oddities that make up far West Texas.

Bathroom is outside behind the old jail!

It was nearly 9pm when we finally got back to Panther Junction, where our apartment is, but we had one more stop to make. We drove up to the Chisos Basin Campground (another 10 miles or so) to deliver the groceries to our camp host friends and stopped for a half hour to sit with them at their campsite and admire the Texas night sky.  We were pretty beat by the time we finally got back to the apartment around 10pm, but it was a great day.