Friday, August 29, 2014

Nevada Learnings (Andre)

In a recent post we said that one of the things that we sought to gain from our time in the Great Basin desert/Sierra Nevada transition zone (as we do in all our travels) was to learn about new places and what life was like there. So, based on our three months stay at the Galena Creek Visitor center, half-way between Reno and Lake Tahoe, here are some things we found interesting and new to us.

·         Nevada is the most mountainous state in the country. There are hundreds of mountain ranges, I think the number we saw was 348 – or something like that. Most of these mountain ranges are oriented north to south and make travel east to west (or vice versa) quite challenging.

·         Nevada has more public land than any other state in the country. Approximately 94% of the state is some kind of public land, mostly BLM, but also national forest, national park, and state and local public lands.

·         There are only three population areas in Nevada. One around Las Vegas in the south and by far the largest. Northwest Nevada around Reno and Carson City. And a small population center in the northeastern part of the state near Salt Lake City and the town of Elko, Nevada. The rest of the state is pretty darn empty, dry, and mountainous.

·         Nevada became a state during the Civil War, in the year 1864, this year being the 150th  anniversary of the state. This is notable because founders of the state were very pro-Union and wrote into the Nevada state constitution that Nevada would always defer to the will of the United States government. (This is notable in the Cliven Bundy story who stated that he only followed Nevada laws – I guess among other problems, he doesn’t know his own state’s history.)

·         The first settlement in Nevada was a Mormon trading post called Mormon Station. Mormon Station was a trading post at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains just south of the current location of Carson City that was started to sell goods to travelers heading to California during the 1840’s gold rush. Mormon Station later was abandoned by the Mormon settlers and eventually became the first town in Nevada called Genoa. (By the way, Mark Twain started his newspaper career in the very town before moving to the larger town of Virginia City Nevada which was the location of the Comstock Lode silver strike.)

·         Reno has a major image problem. (This may sound familiar to RI’ers.) We read and heard many stories of Renoites (or whatever they call themselves) struggling with the negative image they and others had of their city as a second rate gambling town. They are working on reinventing themselves, but are still at the early stages of this process.

·         Nevadans have a thing for dogs. They expect to take their dogs everywhere with them, stores, parks, trails, public buildings, etc. Not being dog people, this took some getting used to. A such, it is not surprising when you enter places in border towns of California that there are reminder signs for the Nevadans that they must control their dog-tendencies and leave their pets behind out of their own state.

·         The Sierra Nevada Mountains have been and are a major barrier to east-west movement. They were historically – you can read lots of stories of the wagon trains and gold rush people struggling with how to get over these mountains. They would plan their whole journey to arrive at a time when one could get over and down safely, and history has many stories of people who misjudged that calculation. Still today, getting over the mountains is an impediment and you really need to decide to you want to go across the 10,000 foot mountains to get anywhere in California.

·         Nevadans, like many people we met in the west, have a strong ethos of leave me alone, I can do what I want, where I want, when I want, how I want. We guess it kind of goes along with the land, open spaces, and spirit of I am on my own!

·         Fire, meaning wildfires, is a way of life out here. Not only Nevada, but California, Oregon, Washington, and other states in this part of the world. Local news has regular segments on current fires, staying safe from fires, and weather conditions that may create fires. We never saw a major fire, but there were several smaller ones in the Reno area during our time here.

There’s lots more we could add, but we hope this offers a glimpse into some of the things we learned about the state of Nevada during our time here in the summer of 2014. We’re glad we are moving on, but as always happy for what we gained from our time in Nevada.

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Hello from Oregon!

A new state for us at last!!



Just entered Oregon and headed to Crater Lake National Park. Spent a great evening and half day at Lava Beds National Monument in California just before we crossed the border.  I will post those photos in the next few days. An amazing place full of caves that were formerly lava tubes! Before that we spent two "recharge" nights in downtown Reno after we left the ranger house/visitor center. We were pleasantly surprised when the Visitor Center Director gave us a generous gift card to a local casino hotel as a thank you gift. We used it to stay in this great suite....complete with hot tub and view. It also paid for a last visit to Brews Brothers, a brew pub in the El Dorado hotel that we had become quite fond of. It was fantastic and a great way to leave Reno!



Friday, August 22, 2014

Making Choices (Andre)

In a recent blog entry, Laura shared briefly some of the less than ideal circumstances what she referred to as “chores and challenges.” Well, please allow me to share a bit of our thinking as to how we got here, how we have coped with the challenges, and what we will take away from this experience.

Here is some of the thinking we went through when we were considering this volunteer gig in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and Nevada desert:

·         We like new adventures.

·         We look for volunteer opportunities with housing.

·         We want to go to places we have not been to.

·         We look for places that have lots of things around them.

·         We hope to do interesting work that will bring new understandings.

When we first considered the Nevada opportunity, it met most of our ‘check-boxes’. New adventures, new places, lots of things around us, new understandings, and housing. But, and this is a big but, the ‘housing’ that the ad we replied to came with a catch, it was shared housing. The more we learned about the housing, the more cautious we became. It would not only be shared housing, but a small house shared with 5-6 young people (18-24 year old camp counselors). We spent a lot of time last winter thinking about the pluses and minuses and obviously chose to come here nonetheless. Basically, the area and access to other places in this vicinity overcame our concern about the housing.

Well, as we wrap us our last week, we can do some assessing. Was it great to come to this area – yes! We have been to Yosemite twice, Lassen Volcanic National Park three times (we had never even heard of this park before), Mammoth Lakes, Virginia City (historic mining town), Lake Tahoe (numerous times) Reno (numerous times), Point Reyes National Park, Great Basin National Park, Sierra Nevada Brewing, Russian River Brewing, etc! Did we learn new thing about this place and part of the world – yes! Did we have new adventures – yes!

But, back to the but. How did the housing go?  To be blunt, and I apologize for the word choice, it sucked! The 5-6 counselors turned out to be 8. The promised internet never materialized. Nor did the big TV with cable, the queen-sized bed, etc. We learned to forgo internet. We slept on a full-sized bed. We were glad we brought a small TV with us in the van. And we learned to go to war.

By war I mean that we were at constant alert to keep the children (as we call them – Laura prefers the term ‘monsters’ but I think that is a disservice to monsters) and their messes in place. We set rules immediately. We reinforced them immediately. We scowled. Reminded. Were jerks (more so me than Laura), and when necessary threw their dirty dishes outside if they left them in the sink. We avoided being at the house as much as possible when they were there. (5 of the 8 weeks the children were away all day and overnight Monday through Friday for an overnight camp.) Additionally, we work Thursday through Saturday and would leave every Sunday morning and not return until Wednesday afternoon. Each Wednesday we came back we would ‘de-louse’ the house including vacuuming, bleaching the floors, getting rid of the trash, and all the children’s junk that was left around and throwing it, rather rudely I might add, by their doors.

We built a cocoon-like suite in our bedroom (which we installed a key-lock on immediately on arrival). We used our camp chairs as our ‘couch,’ our cooler as our end table, and the previously mentioned TV as our ‘entertainment’ center. We ate our meals in the room, hang out in the room, and keep the door closed at all times! On the rare occasion when we have cleaned the house and the children aren’t home, we may eat in the kitchen, but I emphasize the rareness of this.

We’ve made the best out of the situation, as you may expect, but I wouldn’t recommend this to others! But, we also are not sure we would not make the same decision again. We have really enjoyed all the things here we have done and what we have learned about the area. We enjoyed having our boys come and visit as well as catching up with our brother in law Rob and his daughter Claire. Just now that we have ‘experienced’ shared housing, I don’t think we will be doing this again anytime soon!

By the way, if you haven’t been able to tell, we use the word ‘children’ disparagingly – these people should know and act better! 

Thursday, August 21, 2014

Beer Travels (Andre)

As we travel down the road and across the country we have lots of adventures. And as you may know, some of them involve beer. Not that it’s all about beer, even though I have a t-shirt that says just that, but with all this time on our hands we figure we might as well enjoy the beer adventures along the way.

Beer fans, which we count ourselves as, have ‘life-lists’ of notable breweries, bars, and other places to get to. Well, not to boast, but we have been hitting many of the highlights. As you may know from previous blogs we have been among others to New Glarus Brewery (WI), Minhas (WI) Dogfishhead (DE), Goose Island (IL), Sierra Nevada (CA), Lagunitas (CA), Uinta (UT), Great Divide (CO), Avery (CO), Thunderhead (NE) Great Basin (NV). Just listing them does not do it justice but it’s been a lot of fun to go to new (and sometimes previously visited places again) to try some beer, meet people, and experience more of what the country has to offer.

Again, not to boast, but for beer fans, one of the holy grail of beers is Pliny the Elder by Russian River in Santa Rosa, CA. This is a small brewpub/brewery that makes some amazing beers. They only distribute in selected areas in California and in Philadelphia. I assume there is a personal connection for the Philly distribution. Well, we have been there twice now, both on Sundays. Why does Sunday matter – it’s happy hour all day on Sunday. Get this, a pint of Pliny the Elder (or two if you want) is $3.50! Not the 6, 7, 8, or more you might have to pay elsewhere if you can ever get it! Russian River is a ‘short’ 5ish hour drive away and well worth the trip. Enjoy a few pictures from our stops at the noted pub.   
 
 


 
Enjoying the many choices on the beer menu board
 

The first beer of the afternoon

 
Moving on to the sampler...
   
Sunday's are a packed house at Russian River
 

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Ready to Leave Reno

Well, it's hard to believe that a week from today we will be driving away from Reno and will be "on the road again".  Or perhaps not that hard to believe - this summer has been an odd one for us and while some parts of it have flown by and been extremely enjoyable, others have moved at a snails pace - as will happen when where you are is not all that good a "match" for you. The three days a week that we have spent in the ranger house that we share with other - let me just say "less stellar" human beings - has been a chore and a challenge and one we are not likely to repeat in the future. Even so, we can't deny that we have had some truly amazing experiences while we've been here and our off-days traveling have been fantastic.

In addition to all of the great trips I've already documented over the past 10 weeks, the week before last we spent a long weekend in the Mammoth Lakes region of California, including a stunning visit to Devil's Postpile National Monument and then this past weekend we returned to Yosemite once more, taking advantage of the close proximity to see parts of it we missed the first time around. We have done more camping in the van this summer than any other time since we've owned it, and it has really made us appreciate having the perfect vehicle for campground camping in beautiful places. We have truly enjoyed so many warm summer evenings, sitting around campfires under the stars in stunningly gorgeous places. We are presently heading off on another getaway, this one to be shared with our brother in law Rob who is visiting in California for a few weeks. We are going to retrace some of our former steps and show him Lassen Volcanic National Park, as well as the Sierra Nevada Brewery.  Then we will return to work our last three days at the Visitor Center and pack up the van for the last time here! 

In the past few weeks we have pieced together a plan for the next two months. We will travel directly from Nevada north through central Oregon and Washington state to get to a Dave Matthews Band concert at the famed Gorge Amphitheatre in Washington State on labor day weekend, with a likely stop at Crater Lake National Park. After the concert, we will head north toward the Canadian Border, then plan to drive down the coast on Route 101 - affectionately referred to as "the 101" by folks here on the west coast - through Washington, Oregon and the coast of California probably all the way to San Diego, visiting as many national parks along the way as we have time for.

 Our next hard scheduled date is a music festival on September 25th in Marfa, TX, not too far from Big Bend. We are going to be volunteering for the four day Trans Pecos Music Festival, which gets us free tickets to all the shows and free camping as well in exchange for 6-9 hours work over the course of the four days. Next will be a visit to some friends in Big Bend and potentially a flight home to RI for a visit during October.  Once we are out of this communication dead-zone in Nevada, I hope to post again more regularly! Until then. Best wishes to all...and of course, a few photos.

Yosemite Once More

Vernal Falls at Yosemite


 
 
 
Hiking around the outer rim of Panum Crater - Dome Volcano
Panoramic shot of the center of the Dome Volcano



Andre holding a large chunk of Obsidian at Panum Crater




 
 

 
 
Above - a cool waterfall splashes over a cave like indentation in rock.
Below - scenes from Devil's Postpile National Park
 
 
 

 
 

 

 
 
 

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Visit from the boys

 
Just wanted to post a few pictures from our great week with the boys, who traveled here from Delaware and Pittsburgh for an extended visit with Mom and Dad.  While they were here we took a four day road trip in the van together, touring nearby parts of California including a visit to their cousin Claire in Sacramento, a great drive to Point Reyes National Seashore, visits to breweries in Santa Rosa and Chico, and then two days in Lassen National Volcanic Park where we camped together for the first time in many years. Here are some photos from the visit.

Dylan and Nick on our 10 mile hike in the Galena Creek/Mt. Rose Wilderness area

This Tsunami warning sign at the Pacific Ocean was a first for us!

Boys having a much anticipated beer at the Russian River Brewery

 
 
In the hop room on the tour of Sierra Nevada Brewery in Chico

 

 

Looking out over Lassen National Park