74 Miles and No Services (Andre)

Due to a scheduling mix-up, we were given 4 days off in a row from our visitor center responsibilities. We had been thinking of visiting El Paso, 340 miles away, and saw this as a great opportunity. So, we left Sunday evening after work (Memorial Day weekend) and headed west for El Paso!

En route, we came across this sign:

As you will see on the map below, this sign is located just west of Marfa (#2 on the map) as we drove away from Big Bend (#1 on the map). There are no services or much else to speak of for 74 miles until the highway town of Van Horne (#3 on the map). Our final destination was El Paso (#4 on the map) and since we were so close to New Mexico, we also decided to drive 30 more miles to Las Cruses, New Mexico (#5 on the map).

When we saw the 74 mile sign and a warning of no services, it made us think of the sign on the Kancamagus Highway in New Hampshire. As you begin driving the Kancamagus, you are greeted by a warning sign that there are no services for the next 32 miles. That used to seem so long – 32 miles with no gas stations. Well, by my math, 74 is a bit longer than 32 and a nice way to add to our continuing developing understanding and appreciation for just how big things are out here in Texas!

Of course, we did see one thing in that 74 mile stretch (okay, there were some houses and a pretty empty town of Valentine, TX – with of course, no services, along the way). As you will see by the picture below, there was this Prada store.

It is of course, not a real store, though in the ‘store’ is real Prada designer shoes and handbags from the 2005 collection when the building was built. The building is actually an art installation built on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. As you might have seen from previous posts, Marfa is among other things, an arts town and the Prada store was an extension of the art presence from Marfa into the middle of the desert. You are free to draw your own interpretations. Note – the ‘store’ door cannot be opened so no purchases are allowed!

Burro Mesa Pour-off Hike

Many days after our work at the visitor's center, Andre & I try to get out in the park and hike some shorter trails. It is often in the upper 90's or low 100's later in the afternoon, but we have been heading out anyway trying to take advantage of every minute we have to fully enjoy this Big Bend experience. Here are some photos from a hike we took (just a mile in and back) to see a desert "pour-off", a natural waterfall formation that flows in the wetter weather. This one was bone dry, but amazing.

More Big Bend Nature

More Big Bend Nature photos taken with my phone in and around the visitor center and hiking trails.....

Texas Two-tailed Swallow Tail Butterfly

Western Diamond-back Rattlesnake (on a gravel road in park)

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Whiptail Lizard of unknown variety (on a hiking trail)

Rainbow Lizard of unspecified variety

Horse and foal at the Rio Grande river crossing

Javelina (collared peccary) in our back yard playing

Bouquillas, Mexico

It wasn’t very far, only about a 15 foot rowboat ride across the Rio Grande, but we went to Mexico! While both of our world-traveler sons have been to Mexico, and many other places for the matter, we have not yet been ‘south of the border!’

Bouquillas, Mexico is a small town – about 100 people. There is no electricity or running water. It is isolated, 4 hours from the nearest town in Mexico. There are very few roads and services, though there is a small school in the town for the 20 or so children in the town.

Bouquillas has a history of mining – fluoride and other ores such as quicksilver and copper. The villagers would mine the minerals, process them, and then send them by various means - pack animals, tramway, and eventually truck, to a railroad line about 100 miles north in Marathon, Texas for shipment to larger markets. As Big Bend National Park grew in size and popularity since its opening in 1944, the town increasingly came to depend on tourist dollars as the border was largely and unofficial open border between the park tourists and the town. After 9/11, the border crossing was closed and the town has struggled as a result with many people moving away for better prospects.

As we have written previously, the National Park Service worked with the Mexican government and US Immigration to re-open the crossing for the benefit of park tourists and the people of Bouquillas. The crossing was re-opened in April and Laura and I went this week for the first time.

Here’s our Bouquillas story:

The crossing is approximately 25 miles from our apartment. We drove there with another couple who are also volunteers in the park. The Park Service has built a building on the river bank across from the village to accommodate visitors and the entry and exit process.

Once through the building, we walked down a small path to the river bank. As we approached, a Mexican gentleman across the river began serenading us as we walked down the path.  Another gentleman began rowing across the river (again, about 15-20 feet across) to pick us up. The ‘ferry’ costs $5 per person and takes about 3 minutes.

Getting rowed over to Mexico

As we got off the boat, several other gentlemen were awaiting to give us a ride in a pick-up truck ($5 per person) or on a burro ($8 per person). We had already decided we were going to walk the three quarter mile walk to the town and save our money for food and drink. Of course, we were provided a ‘guide’ who escorted us up the hill and shared some of the history of the town – and we gave him a few dollars in return. Again, the people of the village are looking for tourist dollars to help them out.

At the top of the hill as we entered town was the Mexican immigration station – a desk outside of a small building with an official sitting at it who checked our passports and gave us a permit to ‘enter’ Mexico.

Mexican Immigration Station (desk outdoors)

 We then were shown around the town by our guide – 2 small restaurants, a bar, a school, a church, and maybe 60 or so houses and various other buildings. All very small, and in various stages of repair. Notably, and clearly as a result of the re-opened border crossing, some repair and construction was going on.

Now to the important stuff – the food was good, though simple. Bean tacos, burritos, enchillads, etc. salsa and Mexican beer. All very reasonable and all very friendly. After lunch, we of course went to the bar. We had for the first time, Sotol, which is an alcoholic beverage similar to Tequilla but made of sotol which is a very common cactus in the area. And, we had another beer. While in the bar we talked about what life was like before electricity as there were no lights in the bar, or AC, or music. (Keeping food and beverage cold is done so by propane refrigerators.)  

Lunch with our friends and co-volunteers Rick & Deb

Andre & Rick tasting Sotol in the Bar

Some other notable observations: beds outside as it is too warm to sleep inside. Children approaching you in underwear to sell trinkets. A pack of cigarettes for sale for $32 in the bar. Lots of smiling nice people who were eager to be present and friendly.

After about 3 hours or so, we started to walk back to the river for our return ferry ride back to the United States. We were wished well and since we had on our volunteer hats, we were encouraged by the Mexicans to encourage others to come to their town. We walked back up the path to the Park Service building where we had to officially re-enter the US. This process involved speaking via video camera to an immigration official in El Paso.

It was a great and unique experience and another adventure that our travels have allowed us to enjoy! Now I just need to find where I can buy a bottle of Sotol!

Crazy Drive to Presidio

For the last few weeks, we have been utilizing one of our days off each week to take a long drive with the dual goals of  "getting away" and also shopping for grocery items not readily (or reasonably) available in the nearby small towns.  Yesterday we decided to make the much talked about scenic drive along Route 170, which follows the Rio Grande on the US/Mexico border from Lajitas (a desert resort town) to Presidio, TX, a border town with an active international border crossing and one of the consistently hottest cities in the United States.

Along the way we stopped at Lajitas, a "company" town run by a resort operation that owns and operates pretty much everything in it including the stores, gas station, golf course and resort hotel. On a recommendation from a Ranger friend in the park, we also stopped  at the Barton Warnock Visitor Center (part of Big Bend Ranch State Park), a top-notch environmental educational center with fantastic exhibits on the geology of the Big Bend region including both the State and National Park areas as well as surrounding areas. Because we were National Park Volunteers, we were given complimentary passes to the State Park exhibits and we spent an hour or so going through the exhibits and thoroughly enjoyed it.

 Close by was the "Contrabando" movie set.  A decaying old movie set right on the side of the road that was used for a number of westerns in the 80's and 90's. Although many of the small buildings were basically facades, used primarily for exterior shots, it was actually on the Rio Grande, which authenticated it a bit.

Then it was back in the van heading West again.  We'd been told that the ride along the scenic route 170 was both beautiful and a "roller coaster ride".  Both turned out to be completely accurate descriptions!  Along the way, the signs told much of the story:

"Loose Livestock", "Rock Slides", "Road Subject to Flooding", "Steep Hill - 15% grade"

Despite the challenges, the van made it up and down the "Big Hill" and over and around the roller coaster of curves and steep grades, providing us with incredible views all the way to Presidio and back. Along the way we stopped at this interesting road-side rest area that provided shade for the picnic tables in the form of giant Tee Pees.

A particularly lush section of the Rio Grande along the way

Presidio itself was interesting in the way that all border towns have been, with many Mexican nationals crossing into the US to shop and work (and vice-versa). The clerks in all the stores and shops were completely bi-lingual, including at the US Post Office, where we were the only ones in line not speaking Spanish. Like most small towns in West Texas, Presidio offered limited fast food options, so we were happy to see a Subway and enjoyed a foot-long sub and cold fountain soda before hitting the supermarket for groceries for ourselves and also a few things we offered to pick up for some fellow volunteers in the park who we've become friendly with. We found the town to be relatively friendly and nonthreatening, but we were happy to head out none the less when the thermometer approached triple digits.

Finished out the day enjoying two-for-one burgers at a popular, eclectic town just outside the park that many park employees and volunteers frequent on Monday nights. The Terlingua Ghost Town, sports a number of oddities and also some interesting bars and restaurants. This one, the Starlight Theatre, is a popular one with lots of character (and characters!). They have a happy hour that includes $2 margaritas and $2.50 drafts from Big Bend Brewing Co., so it works for all. After eating, most people hang out on the wide front porch and admire the desert landscape, people-watch, and enjoy many of the oddities that make up far West Texas.

Bathroom is outside behind the old jail!

It was nearly 9pm when we finally got back to Panther Junction, where our apartment is, but we had one more stop to make. We drove up to the Chisos Basin Campground (another 10 miles or so) to deliver the groceries to our camp host friends and stopped for a half hour to sit with them at their campsite and admire the Texas night sky.  We were pretty beat by the time we finally got back to the apartment around 10pm, but it was a great day.

What do you do when it is 5:00 PM and 100° - you go hiking! (Andre)

The actual title could be a bit longer. I might also have added, ‘and you just got done working in the visitor center for 8 hours,’ but it seemed bad form for such a long title.

So, yesterday, we got off working in the visitor center at 5:00, it was hot and sunny – 90 degrees at the Visitor Center and 100 degrees on the desert floor, like most days here, and we were off for a hike. As we have written previously, we are using our free time to explore the park, both for our enjoyment but also to inform us so we can be more knowledgeable as we meet and talk with visitors. The park certainly is large, did we mention it’s just a bit larger than RI, and we are having a great time getting to know our temporary home.

So, yesterday it was off to Cattail Falls. This is a short hike, about 5 miles round trip, out to a water fall that serves as the drainage for much of the water that the Basin (where our visitor center is) receives. (The Basin is a bowl-like area that is 2+ miles in circumference and is roughly three quarters of the way up the Chisos Mountains.) While the entire Big Bend and west Texas area is experiencing a prolonged drought, Cattail Falls reportedly always has some water.

The hike to the falls was pleasant, despite the 100 degree temperature  – we are adjusting to the desert temperatures and climate, as you might imagine. The trail follows a dirt road, which we later discovered we could have driven down and turned a 5 mile hike into a 2.5 miles hike (oh well), and was a great opportunity to walk across the desert floor. Think lots of cacti, small brush plants, lizards, some bugs, and not much else. At the trail head and as we walked further down the trail, signs of water became evident as the small desert brush grew in size and some small and eventually larger trees began to dot the landscape.

Within a half mile of the falls, a large eroded wash, almost like a canyon, led away from the high cliffs where the falls normally meet the desert floor. The wash varied from a few feet at its mouth to more than 20+ feet closer to the falls. Also, the size and amount of vegetation grew significantly the closer we got to the cliffs and falls. (This may seem like a no-brainer, but we are learning quite clearly that if there is green in the desert, there is water. And, the bigger the plants, the more water there is!)

Well, we got to the falls, and while the water from the pour-off was much less falls and more like a small trickle, we were not disappointed in the least. There was a small oasis-like forest at the base of the falls. We entered and disturbed a small white-tail deer taking a drink, saw lots of dragon-flies, frogs and tadpoles in the pools at the base of the falls, and disturbed a great big jack rabbit taking a drink on the way out! We saw mountain lion scat, but did not see one while we were there.

While the falls were really only a trickle, there were still quite a few pools of water that are at the base of the falls and also stretch away from the cliffs for a 1000 feet or so. Some pools were as small as small puddles and some as large as 15+ feet across. One of the larger pools was really pretty and had a deep spot of crystal clear blue water that appeared to be more than 3 feet deep – no going in the water here, this water is for the desert and park wildlife!

It was a happy walk back to the car as Laura and I discussed the great opportunity we have here in Big Bend to really get to know a place. We have done a fair share of traveling, but usually of the weekend or week-long variety. Being in one place for a month, it has been that long already, is a real treat. We also felt it was cooler as we were walking back to the car. And, we were right – the car thermometer read 98°!!

Oasis deep in the desert

Cattail Falls

Desert hike back out to the road

Desert Flowers


Just sending along some photos of some of the beautiful plant life we've seen here in West Texas. These are some of the most common plants of the Chihuahuan desert.

Century Plant

The Century plant (Agave Scabra) derived it's name from the fact that it takes so long for it to produce a blossom. Under favorable conditions, it takes only 12-15 years! 


Flowering Cane Cholla

The Cholla (Cane Cactus) is probably my favorite cactus thus far.  It frequently grows up to 8 feet tall and produces both magenta-purplish-red flowers and also yellow fruit that is eaten by deer and cattle.



Prickly Pear

The Low Prickly Pear (or Smooth Prickly Pear) is the  most widespread of all the cacti in the United States and is found all over Texas. The flowers are 2-5 inches across with pale yellow to orange-yellow flowers.

Ocatilla

The Ocatilla (pronounced oca- teeyuh) is not part of the cactus family, but grows in the same habitat as cactus and does have thorns.  It's part of the Ocotillo/Candlewood family, which consists of shrubs with erect, wand like stems.  The Ocatilla's we've seen in the park are quite tall and after a rain suddenly sprout a fur of tiny green leaves. When we first arrived, we caught them as they were flowering deep orange - almost red clusters of tiny flowers at the tips of the stems.  Quite beautiful!

Hike to Balanced Rock

Balanced Rock

In the past few weeks we've had the opportunity to hike many trails and take many scenic drives through Big Bend.  One of the most beautiful trails we recently hiked was the Grapevine Hills trail that leads out to a feature called balanced rock. You will see why it is so named when you look at the photographs.

This particular hike we did after a work day in the Visitor Center. We got out to the trail about 5:15pm and it was a bright, clear, warm day with a slight breeze.  The hike is fairly mild, through a canyon surrounded by endless piles and formations of rocks that have broken from the surrounding hills over the centuries and rolled down the slopes, settling on the hillsides and in the canyons, sometimes tumbling on top of each other. Here are some photos from the fantastic hike.

Andre at the rock (for some perspective)

Yucca in the rocks

It's windy up here!

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We're not making this up! (Andre)

Okay, I know you don’t really doubt us, but this truly is an amazing place and some of it and our experiences may merit some corroboration! So, we came across, and our friend Sue shared a link, to a couple of stories about Big Bend and the surrounding area.

The first link is an NPR story about the re-opening of the border crossing in Big Bend to the small Mexican town of Bouquillas. Here is the link:

http://www.npr.org/2013/04/11/176911169/off-limits-since-sept-11-a-texas-mexico-crossing-re-opens

The second link is to a 60 Minutes piece on the small town of Marfa, Texas. It is the next town over from Alpine, Texas which is 110 miles from here and the nearest ‘big’ small town where we shop. We have driven through Marfa and plan to return for a longer visit.

http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=50144819n

I hope you enjoy both stories as they may help to shed a bit more light on this part of the world.

By the way, no corroboration for this one, other than the picture, but last week I drove a cop car! Okay, it really was a cop pick-up truck, but it had a radar gun, flashing lights, radio, gun mount (empty of course). The park rangers who patrol the Rio Grande were looking for volunteers to help shuttle them for a week-long canoe trip. I volunteered, and even though I spent the better part of my life avoiding such things, I drove the truck for about 75 miles, 25 of which was in 4 wheel drive on some back country roads. To say the least, it was one more of the many, many new experiences we have been able to experience on the road!

The Rainbow Drought is Over !!

Yahoo!

Any of you who were reading my blog back in March know that I have been waiting to see a rainbow for a good long time. As I mentioned in my post of 3/24 when I was very frustrated at Florida's reluctant sky, I have been waiting to make the first entry in my "Rainbow Journal" that I received as a gift more than a year ago. There were no Rainbows in Florida, nor Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi or Louisiana despite many skies that looked promising over the last 12 weeks.

Finally - a rainbow. Right here in the West Texas desert where it was least expected. Considering that this area and certainly Big Bend National Park has been in a serious drought for the past two years and we had seen virtually no rain since arriving at the park, I did not expect this desert to give up a rain drop, never mind an actual rainbow.  Boy was I happy to be wrong.

It happened last night when we were driving through the park on our way back to our place at Panther Junction after our once-a-week excursion to Alpine, TX (100 miles away) to do errands and buy groceries.  The skies looked ominous for the last 40 miles of our drive and just after entering the park, we began to see lightening and finally, downpours on and off for a good period of time.  In the desert, when the rains come, they quickly fill the dry riverbeds and "washes" and often result in flash flooding.  Below is a photo we snapped (before the rainbow), as we pulled over to watch the riverbeds that had previously been bone dry fill with water and gush along at a furious pace.

After stopping to watch the water run, we got back in the van and about 10 minutes later noticed that the sun was starting to peek out through the clouds even though rain was still falling. Although I was looking around furiously for any hint of a rainbow, it was Andre who noticed the very first colors start to burst from the desert floor and we watched in awe as a complete rainbow slowly developed in a perfect arch across the desert floor. A second bow was starting form just above it when we snapped some of the photos. It was truly amazing - and certainly worth waiting for...