Bouquillas, Mexico

It wasn’t very far, only about a 15 foot rowboat ride across the Rio Grande, but we went to Mexico! While both of our world-traveler sons have been to Mexico, and many other places for the matter, we have not yet been ‘south of the border!’

Bouquillas, Mexico is a small town – about 100 people. There is no electricity or running water. It is isolated, 4 hours from the nearest town in Mexico. There are very few roads and services, though there is a small school in the town for the 20 or so children in the town.

Bouquillas has a history of mining – fluoride and other ores such as quicksilver and copper. The villagers would mine the minerals, process them, and then send them by various means - pack animals, tramway, and eventually truck, to a railroad line about 100 miles north in Marathon, Texas for shipment to larger markets. As Big Bend National Park grew in size and popularity since its opening in 1944, the town increasingly came to depend on tourist dollars as the border was largely and unofficial open border between the park tourists and the town. After 9/11, the border crossing was closed and the town has struggled as a result with many people moving away for better prospects.

As we have written previously, the National Park Service worked with the Mexican government and US Immigration to re-open the crossing for the benefit of park tourists and the people of Bouquillas. The crossing was re-opened in April and Laura and I went this week for the first time.

Here’s our Bouquillas story:

The crossing is approximately 25 miles from our apartment. We drove there with another couple who are also volunteers in the park. The Park Service has built a building on the river bank across from the village to accommodate visitors and the entry and exit process.

Once through the building, we walked down a small path to the river bank. As we approached, a Mexican gentleman across the river began serenading us as we walked down the path.  Another gentleman began rowing across the river (again, about 15-20 feet across) to pick us up. The ‘ferry’ costs $5 per person and takes about 3 minutes.

Getting rowed over to Mexico

As we got off the boat, several other gentlemen were awaiting to give us a ride in a pick-up truck ($5 per person) or on a burro ($8 per person). We had already decided we were going to walk the three quarter mile walk to the town and save our money for food and drink. Of course, we were provided a ‘guide’ who escorted us up the hill and shared some of the history of the town – and we gave him a few dollars in return. Again, the people of the village are looking for tourist dollars to help them out.

At the top of the hill as we entered town was the Mexican immigration station – a desk outside of a small building with an official sitting at it who checked our passports and gave us a permit to ‘enter’ Mexico.

Mexican Immigration Station (desk outdoors)

 We then were shown around the town by our guide – 2 small restaurants, a bar, a school, a church, and maybe 60 or so houses and various other buildings. All very small, and in various stages of repair. Notably, and clearly as a result of the re-opened border crossing, some repair and construction was going on.

Now to the important stuff – the food was good, though simple. Bean tacos, burritos, enchillads, etc. salsa and Mexican beer. All very reasonable and all very friendly. After lunch, we of course went to the bar. We had for the first time, Sotol, which is an alcoholic beverage similar to Tequilla but made of sotol which is a very common cactus in the area. And, we had another beer. While in the bar we talked about what life was like before electricity as there were no lights in the bar, or AC, or music. (Keeping food and beverage cold is done so by propane refrigerators.)  

Lunch with our friends and co-volunteers Rick & Deb

Andre & Rick tasting Sotol in the Bar

Some other notable observations: beds outside as it is too warm to sleep inside. Children approaching you in underwear to sell trinkets. A pack of cigarettes for sale for $32 in the bar. Lots of smiling nice people who were eager to be present and friendly.

After about 3 hours or so, we started to walk back to the river for our return ferry ride back to the United States. We were wished well and since we had on our volunteer hats, we were encouraged by the Mexicans to encourage others to come to their town. We walked back up the path to the Park Service building where we had to officially re-enter the US. This process involved speaking via video camera to an immigration official in El Paso.

It was a great and unique experience and another adventure that our travels have allowed us to enjoy! Now I just need to find where I can buy a bottle of Sotol!