On the Border (Andre)

This is not an entry about Mexican restaurants or a political statement either, just some thoughts about essentially living ‘on the border’ these last couple of months. While immigration and border security are major national issues at this time, they seem to have a bit of a different tinge, other layers of complexity, and various and at times contradictory perspective down here.

First, I should note, that the border and border areas vary greatly. We have driven through a few border crossing towns (Del Rio, Presidio, and El Paso) and they vary greatly from areas that are not along the border, and certainly from the border area within Big Bend National park (the southern border of the park is the Rio Grande and this border is 118 miles long).

So here are some observations and thoughts: 

Border Patrol: There is a strong border patrol presence everywhere. There vehicles all have a tell-tale green stripe that clearly gives them away. They drive down the road. Are parked along highways, in parking lots, in the desert, on hills, and just about anywhere else you might look. Along the main highways and roads, the Border Patrol maintains secondary dirt roads that parallel the tarred roads. The purpose of these dirt roads is to be able to detect foot prints from people that might be crossing illegally. (Every so often, you will see three large tractor tires laying on the ground and chained together. Border Patrol attaches these tires to the back of their vehicles to periodically ‘sweep’ the dirt roads clear to be able to detect any new footprints.)

Immigration check points are common. There are established checkpoints and roving ones. At either one, you are typically asked a few questions about your citizenship and travel. While this is going on, a dog (drug-sniffing we presume) is lead around the vehicle. We have heard from one visitor in the park that their car was searched after the dogs reacted, but this is the only occasion we have seen or heard.

There are major Border Patrol headquarters in every town of any size. And based on our observations, the border patrol personnel are numerous. For the size of some of these towns, the Border Patrol agents and support staff must make up a sizable percentage of the local population and contribute significantly to the local economy. Seeing their presence has made us wonder if some of the motivation to increase Border Patrol activity is to not also further contribute to the local economies of the towns and states on the border as all these people shop, build homes, attend schools, etc.

Border Culture: This is not a surprising statement but clearly the influence of Mexican and Spanish culture is very strong here. Tex-Mex really has a meaning here in that there are elements of Texas life and Mexican life and at times it is a seamless blend. At times it is not. Place names, words, food, clothing styles, activities, and more all reflect the two histories and backgrounds of the people who inhabit this area. Around the park, the presence of Mexico and Mexican culture appears to particularly strong as the river has never been a firm or closed boundary, rather just a piece of the landscape.

Border Attitude: The border and life along the border is a prominent topic and seems to generate a common sense of foreboding and trepidation about border security and ‘Mexicans’ among many. While this is not shared by all, and certainly is more common along the major border towns, it is an undeniable presence in this part of the world. Some people spend considerable time being concerned about it and avoid border areas. Some lament that that the area has changed with the rise of the drug cartels and drug violence across the river and fear its spread into the US. Some think that the concerns are overblown and continue their lives with minimal regard or concern. Some others think that the Mexicans are an important part of border life and culture and should be celebrated as co-equals who have populated and created this part of the world.

The Physical Border: Prior to coming down this way, the border seemed such an abstract thing that also carried some assumptions for us. For example, we assumed that it was a clear demarcation point between the two countries. We assumed that it was some type of physical barrier that did not change with location. We assumed (when the border coincided with the Rio Grande River) that the river must be quite wide and clearly delineated which side was which. We assumed that on one side of the border it clearly would be Mexico and on the other it clearly would be the US and the sides would be quite different. It was of course, ‘The Border’ that we read about and see countless stories about on the news.

Well, after a few months, we have found many of our assumptions to incorrect. Certainly in the major border crossing towns (El Paso, Del Rio, Presidio) we did see the fences, bridges, border checkpoints, and backed-up traffic that we expected. But, even in these places, on closer look, we noticed some other things too. The land did not miraculously change between the two sides. Plant and animal life stayed the same too. As did many of the people we saw coming and going across the border. Furthermore, especially around El Paso, there is no water in the Rio Grande River (the River is considered a ‘dry river’ from El Paso to Presidio meaning there is not water in it – it has all been used for irrigation and other purposes) so that the ‘river border’ is not a river but a concrete drainage path that has been established as the border. There are indeed high fences on the banks of the concrete drainages (with lots of border patrol presence) but no great river that separates the two countries.

Which brings us to the Big Bend area. It is here that the border and notion of the border seems to make less sense. There is a border patrol presence in the park. But along the river, often at times being no more that 10-15 feet wide and 2-3 foot deep, the idea of one shore being one country and the other shore another country seems odd and an interesting human construct.

Birds, mammals, plants, frogs, snakes and the like certainly go back and forth at will. Landscapes and landforms do not suddenly change. As do people come and go, though it is legal only at the one official crossing in the park at the Mexican town of Bouquillas. And, at least in this part of the world, there is a sense of cooperation and being in it together, regardless of the side of the border you are from. (Interesting fact – the Big Bend fire crew is supplemented by the Los Diablos a highly trained Mexican fire crew from the Mexican town of Bouquillas. Interesting fact 2 – prior to 9/11, residents in Bouquillas got their mail delivered to the park via US mail and crossed the river at will to resupply in the park.)

Again, these are just some of our observations and some of the thoughts that come to our mind living down here in the shadow of the border!